Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
